Lazio Region Guide: Beyond Rome
Lazio is often defined by Rome, yet the region extends far beyond the capital’s monumental landmarks. Beyond the historic centre explored in our Rome guide, Lazio unfolds into a landscape of medieval hilltop villages, volcanic lakes, spiritual sanctuaries, and quiet countryside retreats.
This regional guide is rooted in direct experience. Gigia has personally explored the ancient streets of Civita di Bagnoregio, walked through the atmospheric ruins of Celleno, wandered the calm historic centre of Rieti, and visited the mountain towns of Greccio and Contigliano. These are not abstract recommendations — they are places physically visited and assessed.
Click each location in the accordion section below to expand and discover the specific cafés, viewpoints, eateries, and local spots that welcomed Gigia.
Medieval Villages & Etruscan Roots
Across Lazio, many borghi were built on elevated ground for defence, visibility, and access to water sources. Some date back to medieval times, while others preserve Etruscan foundations. Civita di Bagnoregio dramatically rises above a fragile tuff valley, while Celleno — often referred to as a “borgo fantasma” — offers a striking reminder of Italy’s layered past.
In Rieti and the surrounding Sabine hills, life moves at a noticeably slower rhythm than in Rome. Greccio and Contigliano, set against mountain backdrops, provide a peaceful contrast to the capital’s intensity.
Lakes, Countryside & Slower Travel
Lazio is also shaped by its natural landscapes. Lake Bracciano offers lakeside calm, while Tivoli blends Renaissance gardens with panoramic valley views. Many of these towns feature pedestrian historic centres and manageable scale — qualities appreciated by calm travelers and cat lovers who prefer environments that feel welcoming rather than overwhelming.
Planning Your Stay in Lazio
If you are planning to base yourself in Rome and explore the wider region, our guide to booking cat-friendly accommodation in Rome explains how we use platforms like Booking and Airbnb to find genuinely welcoming properties.
For a structured route that combines the capital with surrounding villages, see our Rome & Lazio itinerary guide, which outlines how to balance major landmarks with quieter regional escapes.
While Rome remains Lazio’s gravitational centre, the surrounding towns reveal a different dimension of central Italy — one that rewards slow exploration and thoughtful planning.
Celleno (VT)
Known as the ‘Ghost Town,’ Celleno is a medieval village that was largely abandoned after an earthquake. Its crumbling stone houses and eerie atmosphere add a layer of mystery, as if the village itself is whispering tales of its past. Apart from the ubiquitous olive oil, the area is also known for its honey production, a sweet reminder of life persisting among the ruins.
Gigia, ever the adventurer, seemed right at home examining the ancient walls with the focus of a miniature Indiana Jones, as if she were uncovering secrets hidden for centuries. At one point, she even looked set to steal a fancy motorcycle on display in the village square, her eyes gleaming with mischief as if she were plotting her great escape. (Move over, Easy Rider—there’s a new rebel in town, and she’s got whiskers.)
But the highlight of her visit was the walk on the wooden rails outside the village, where the eerie yet calming surroundings seemed to captivate her completely. Celleno’s haunting beauty and timeless charm provided the perfect backdrop for Gigia’s antics, proving that even a ghost town can come alive with a curious feline explorer on the prowl.
Explore
Civita Di Bagnoregio (VT)
Civita Di Bagnoregio (VT)
Often called the ‘Dying Town,’ Civita di Bagnoregio is a stunning hilltop village accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. The town is famous for its breathtaking views and its slow erosion, which gives it a unique, otherworldly charm. My stomach did somersaults as Gigia strutted along the walls, peering down at the steep valley below with the fearless curiosity of a cat who’s clearly decided that gravity is just a suggestion.
At the heart of the village lies the Chiesa di San Donato, the main church of Civita di Bagnoregio. Located in the central square, it features a Romanesque facade with Renaissance elements, and inside, it houses a wooden crucifix attributed to the school of Donatello. The church has been a significant landmark in Civita for centuries, standing as a testament to the town’s rich history and resilience. Gigia admired all of this from the comfort of the cool church floor, her tail flicking lazily as if she were a tiny art critic taking it all in—though she might have been more interested in the acoustics for her next meow performance. (Move over, Pavarotti—there’s a new diva in town.)
But the real surprise came when she somehow managed to secure us a table at a busy restaurant for lunch, proving that even in a crowded eatery, a determined cat can work miracles. Whether she charmed the maître d’ with her whiskers or simply stared them into submission, we’ll never know. Civita di Bagnoregio’s haunting beauty and timeless allure created an unforgettable setting for Gigia’s adventures, showing that even a ‘dying town’ can feel alive with a curious feline in charge.
Explore
Rieti (RI)
Officially recognized as Italy’s geographical heart, Rieti has been a crossroads of civilization since ancient Sabine times. Its medieval center, encircled by 13th-century walls, tells stories of pilgrims and popes – but today’s magic unfolds at places like Le Tre Porte, where literature and la dolce vita intertwine.
We came for two reasons: to reunite with old friends, and for Gigia’s book presentation in their atmospheric event space. The evening was quintessential Rieti – book lovers and cat enthusiasts sipping Cesanese wine beneath shelves of well-thumbed novels, while plates of divine polpette (reimagined with surprising local twists) made the rounds.
Gigia, ever the gracious author-cat, indulged her fans – though her high-fives came with conditions. Approach too eagerly and she’d retreat; extend a patient hand, however, and she might deign to touch it with her velvet paw before returning to more important matters (namely, monitoring the polpette situation). This is Rieti’s charm: a place where Roman bridges stand minutes from vibrant cultural hubs, where a cat’s literary debut draws crowds as reliably as the town’s annual festivals, and where every gathering – whether discussing books or simply sharing food – becomes a celebration of community.
Rome
Rome
Rome: Where Gigia Met the Eternal City
Rome requires little introduction, yet every city reveals a different character when experienced from ground level.
Gigia’s connection with Rome extends beyond sightseeing. The city has served both as a cultural backdrop and as a professional stage — including her book presentation at Rome’s iconic COIN Department Store, where readers, media, and curious shoppers gathered to meet Italy’s most well-traveled cat.
While visitors explored landmarks such as the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon, and the Colosseum, Gigia’s experience of Rome focused on atmosphere, hospitality, and how a historic metropolis accommodates feline presence. From boutique hotels to carefully selected eateries, Rome proved that even a dense and ancient capital can adapt to modern travel with animals — when approached strategically.
The COIN event marked a turning point in visibility. Set among designer boutiques and contemporary retail spaces, it demonstrated how the Gigia narrative bridges literature, travel culture, and urban life. Rome was not simply a setting — it was a proving ground.
Beyond the monuments, Rome offers layered neighborhoods where calmer streets and residential corners create a more manageable base for extended stays. Choosing the right district is essential, particularly when traveling with a cat. Our Rome booking guide explains how we evaluate neighborhoods, buildings, and accommodation platforms to find properties that offer both central access and livable quiet.
For those planning to explore beyond the capital, our Rome & Lazio itinerary outlines how to combine major landmarks with hilltop villages such as Civita di Bagnoregio and the Sabine towns visited by Gigia.
Rome may be eternal, but it continues to evolve. Through events, travel, and careful neighborhood selection, it has become not only a historic icon, but an operational base for exploring central Italy with intention.
