Lazio, the heart of Italy, is so much more than just Rome. While the Eternal City steals the show, we decided to skip the crowds and uncover the region’s underrated delights. Scattered across the landscape are enchanting hilltop villages, many of which have stood since medieval times—or even earlier. These villages were strategically built on high ground for defence against invaders, sweeping views of approaching threats, and access to fresh water sources. Some even trace their roots back to the Etruscans, an ancient civilization with a knack for picking prime real estate (and, apparently, great Instagram-worthy backdrops).
From cobblestone alleys that zigzag like a cat chasing a laser pointer to sun-drenched squares that radiate warmth like a freshly baked focaccia, these villages are a living scrapbook of Italy’s rich history and enduring charm. Gigia, ever the intrepid explorer, made sure her paw-prints were left on every corner she investigated. She strutted through ancient archways like a tiny historian with a tail, surveyed the countryside like a miniature general, and even paused to admire the occasional sunbeam (because even a historical adventure needs a good snooze spot).
Rome may be the star of Lazio, but its off-the-radar villages prove that the region has plenty of tales to tell—especially when there’s a whiskered tour guide leading the way. Who needs the Colosseum when you’ve got a cat who can turn a medieval village into her personal fiefdom?
Celleno (VT)
Celleno (VT)
Known as the ‘Ghost Town,’ Celleno is a medieval village that was largely abandoned after an earthquake. Its crumbling stone houses and eerie atmosphere add a layer of mystery, as if the village itself is whispering tales of its past. Apart from the ubiquitous olive oil, the area is also known for its honey production, a sweet reminder of life persisting among the ruins.
Gigia, ever the adventurer, seemed right at home examining the ancient walls with the focus of a miniature Indiana Jones, as if she were uncovering secrets hidden for centuries. At one point, she even looked set to steal a fancy motorcycle on display in the village square, her eyes gleaming with mischief as if she were plotting her great escape. (Move over, Easy Rider—there’s a new rebel in town, and she’s got whiskers.)
But the highlight of her visit was the walk on the wooden rails outside the village, where the eerie yet calming surroundings seemed to captivate her completely. Celleno’s haunting beauty and timeless charm provided the perfect backdrop for Gigia’s antics, proving that even a ghost town can come alive with a curious feline explorer on the prowl.
Civita di Bagnoregio (VT)
Civita Di Bagnoregio (VT)
Often called the ‘Dying Town,’ Civita di Bagnoregio is a stunning hilltop village accessible only by a pedestrian bridge. The town is famous for its breathtaking views and its slow erosion, which gives it a unique, otherworldly charm. My stomach did somersaults as Gigia strutted along the walls, peering down at the steep valley below with the fearless curiosity of a cat who’s clearly decided that gravity is just a suggestion.
At the heart of the village lies the Chiesa di San Donato, the main church of Civita di Bagnoregio. Located in the central square, it features a Romanesque facade with Renaissance elements, and inside, it houses a wooden crucifix attributed to the school of Donatello. The church has been a significant landmark in Civita for centuries, standing as a testament to the town's rich history and resilience. Gigia admired all of this from the comfort of the cool church floor, her tail flicking lazily as if she were a tiny art critic taking it all in—though she might have been more interested in the acoustics for her next meow performance. (Move over, Pavarotti—there’s a new diva in town.)
But the real surprise came when she somehow managed to secure us a table at a busy restaurant for lunch, proving that even in a crowded eatery, a determined cat can work miracles. Whether she charmed the maître d’ with her whiskers or simply stared them into submission, we’ll never know. Civita di Bagnoregio’s haunting beauty and timeless allure created an unforgettable setting for Gigia’s adventures, showing that even a 'dying town' can feel alive with a curious feline in charge.
Others
Contigliano (RI)
Contigliano (RI)
If it weren’t for friends, we’d never have discovered Contigliano, quietly sitting in the Sabina hills. Its medieval tower and sweeping views set the stage for an aperitif—and, as it turns out, a five-course gourmet feast. We were brought here by old friends I hadn’t seen in years during our summer trip to Umbria, and the evening quickly turned into a celebration of food, laughter, and jaw-dropping scenery.
Gigia, as if to prove she was not a nuisance to anyone, dozed off while the adults indulged in the feast, her tail twitching as if dreaming of her next caper—or maybe just scheming how to swipe a bite of dessert. (Let’s be honest, she was probably imagining herself as the star of Ocean’s Eleven: Feline Edition.)
Contigliano’s quiet charm and breathtaking views made for a memorable night, but it was the sleepy cat who truly stole the show. Whether she was napping like a tiny gourmet or twitching her tail in her dreams, Gigia reminded us that even the most elegant evenings are better with a curious feline in the mix.
Civita di Bagnoregio (VT)
Greccio (RI)
This picturesque village is famous for its Nativity Scene tradition, as it was here that St. Francis of Assisi created the first live Nativity in 1223. The Hermitage of Greccio Sanctuary, one of four shrines founded by the saint, sits high in the rocks near Greccio, offering jaw-dropping views of the Rieti Valley. The sanctuary itself is a marvel of medieval architecture, featuring a Latin cross design, Gothic windows, and a crypt with a 13th-century fresco of the 'Preparation of the Nativity.'
The village’s deep connection to this beloved tradition adds a layer of charm and history to its already enchanting atmosphere. It’s the perfect setting for an aperitif before dinner, especially when bathed in the golden light of the setting sun. Gigia, ever the well-behaved companion, soaked in the view with the poise of a seasoned traveler—though she might have been more interested in the local birds than the prosecco. (Let’s face it, even saints’ shrines can’t compete with a good feathery distraction.)
The combination of history, beauty, and a serene cat made for an unforgettable evening—proving that even a centuries-old tradition can feel fresh with a feline in the mix. Who knew St. Francis’ legacy could include a cameo from a whiskered explorer?