While Florence may be Tuscany’s celebrated crown jewel, the soul of the region lies in its rolling countryside, ancient hill towns, and world-renowned wines. Here we explore two destinations where la dolce vita takes different forms: the maritime elegance of Porto Ercole and the surreal, steamy paradise of Saturnia’s breathtaking thermal springs—truly a natural masterpiece. For detailed guides to these and other Italian treasures, dive into Gigia’s Italy (Zampe in viaggio).
Porto Ercole (GR)
Porto Ercole: Salt, Secrets & Sun-Drenched Drama Let’s be honest—Porto Ercole was never just another pretty fishing village. This sun-baked jewel on Tuscany’s wild Argentario coast has always thrived on drama. The Spanish built fortress walls thick enough to withstand cannon fire (and apparently, hangovers—Caravaggio famously croaked here in 1610 after one hell of a bender). The Medici schemed. Pirates lurked. And today? Billionaires park their yachts where smugglers once unloaded contraband.
Just inland, Capalbio (GR) perches like a golden crown atop its hill—the medieval yin to Porto Ercole’s maritime yang. This honey-stoned village, once the Medici’s favorite hunting retreat, now lures artists and aristocrats with its dusky pink sunsets and hidden wine bars. Where Porto Ercole flaunts its sea salt and celebrity yachts, Capalbio whispers of truffle hunts in the Maremma woods and midnight passeggiate along Etruscan walls.
Gigia, never one to miss a good spectacle, claimed her royal box seat atop the old borgo’s crumbling ramparts. Below her, the Tyrrhenian put on its daily show: turquoise waves licking at 16th-century bastions, bronzed Italians arguing over anchovy prices, and some poor soul inevitably realizing their rented Ferrari won’t fit through the medieval alleyways.
She yawned. Seen it all before.
Because Porto Ercole’s real magic isn’t in the glamorous marina or the €50-a-plate seafood pasta (though darling, try the bottarga). It’s in the way Capalbio’s medieval shadows dance with the port’s sparkling lights—two sides of the same golden coin, connected by winding roads lined with umbrella pines. The sirocco wind still carries whispers of dead artists, Spanish soldiers, and one supremely unimpressed cat—all agreeing this view was worth killing (or at least napping) for. From “Whiskers & Wars: A Cat’s Guide to Italy’s Most Scandalous Shores”
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Saturnia (GR)
Saturnia
The landscape exhales here. At Terme di Saturnia, nature has crafted its own cathedral – steaming waterfalls cascading over sculpted travertine terraces, their mineral-rich waters maintaining a constant 37°C warmth that has soothed everyone from Etruscan warriors to modern wellness seekers. The Mulino waterfalls, named for the ancient mill they once powered, create natural whirlpool baths where the morning mist dances with rising steam in an eternal waltz.
Nearby, the medieval villages of southern Tuscany stand sentinel over this watery wonder. Saturnia itself perches modestly above its famous springs, its Etruscan roots still visible in the weathered stone walls. A short drive away, Manciano crowns its hill like a watchful guardian, offering panoramic views across the Maremma’s rolling landscape. Closer still, the honey-colored walls of Montemerano encircle a postcard-perfect piazza where time moves to the rhythm of church bells and casual conversation.
While her human surrendered to the thermal waters’ embrace, Gigia demonstrated her own version of relaxation – curled up inside her camper-backpack with only her nose visible, observing the steam rising from her mobile observation post. The occasional twitch of her whiskers suggested either approval of these natural wonders or amusement at human rituals – with Gigia, one can never be entirely certain.
At Saturnia, the earth offers its warmth freely, the villages guard their ancient charms, and even visiting cats find their perfect comfort – whether in mineral-rich pools or in the familiar cocoon of a well-loved backpack.
